Hitchhiker’s guide to Sindh (Episode 4)

Missing the shrine of Abdul Qadir Jellani did not bother us, as we had decided to go to Larkana. We said goodbye to Arsalan and Majid. Ismat had many acquaintances at Chandka Medical College. As we were on the bus to Larkana, I received a text message from a junior telling that he would host us as his cousin (our actual host) was absent. Despite the fact told by us that we  have other hosts as well, he still wanted to get the honor of hosting us.

It took us two hours to reach Larkana from Ghambit so we slept through the journey. On reaching Larkana we discovered that our host ( Ismat’s acquaintance) had not come to receive us as he was busy with his viva. Therefore we had to wait for our host. Meanwhile we met some people who were familiar to Ismat. We were  offered the worst orange juice in our lives so therefore we were forced to curse the shopkeeper. Then came Umer, our host and took us to his room where we had lunch and then rested afterwards. In the evening we set off for Mohenjodaro. Umer was accompanied by his friend Muzaffar who had recently watched a documentary film on Mohenjodaro. Muzzafar briefed us regarding Mohenjodaro as we walked through the ruins.


The ruins represented the once majestic and magnificent city. The city was so ahead of its time it had underground sewerage, properly planned housing and business markets.  The town is said to be the first planned city in the history. The Buddhist monastery was the center of excavation. Due to lack of resources only a small part has been so far excavated while the rest is still uncovered.

The statue of Sambara, the dancing girl has been created in the park surrounding the ruins. She was an extraordinary tall girl with extraordinary long forearms and neck which was usually covered with jewelry. This girl was a performer and her statue confirms that fact that she was considered a symbol of beauty in ancient times.

The annual magazine of Chandka Medical College is named after Sambara. We were further told that the original statue had been shifted to India at the time of partition. Now what is left in Pakistan is actually a copy of the original.

It was getting dark and our next destination was Garhi Khuda bakhsh. This small town is famous for Bhutto mausoleum. The mausoleum contains the graves of Bhutto’s with the inclusion of Zulfiqar and Benazir Bhutto. Both these Bhuttos’ in some point in time were the Prime Ministers of Pakistan.  The road heading to Ghari Khuda Bakhsh was surrounded by mango trees however we could not have a look at those mango trees as it was dark. The Bhutto mausoleum was magnificent and the flood lights made it appear like a white pearl.  The mausoleum had a huge lawn in front which is usually used for large political gatherings.  The walls of the inner court of the mausoleum were covered with pictures of Bhutto family. The two Bhutto sons had died before Benazir Bhutto however some space had been left for Benazir Bhutto’s grave right next to Zulfiqar Ali  Bhutto’s grave.  The idea of bowing down in front of graves of wali’s is a common practice since these people are considered saints. However the idea of bowing down before the graves of political leaders did not seem appealing to me at all. When we returned to the Chandka Medical College host, we had the pleasure of meeting some finest people. They took us to dinner and we enjoyed sizzling Tikkay , white karahi and some green karahi. The food was fabulous and the tea was extra ordinary.  Sindhi tea was definitely much better than the tea in Muzaffarabad.  The Sindhi tea was of many flavors including that of dry fruits.  The next morning we had the opportunity of touring our host’s college which was indeed splendid.  The next morning we decided to leave, our hosts dropped us to the bus stop.  The college was very beautiful indeed so I wished to join it. Our trip was made special by our hosts and friends therefore we would always admire them for their hospitality.



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